Derry to Donegal – Travelling B16's

“Derry is the only remaining completely intact walled city in Ireland and one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe. The Walls constitute the largest monument in State care in Northern Ireland and, as it was the last walled city to be built in Europe, stands as the most complete and spectacular.

The Walls were built in the 17th century as defences for settlers from England & Scotland. The Walls are intact and form a walkway around the inner city. They provide a unique promenade to view the layout of the original town which still preserves its Renaissance style street plan. There are four original gates to the Walled City to which three further gates were added later. Historic buildings within the walls include the Gothic cathedral of St Columb, the Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall and the courthouse.
It is one of the few cities in Europe that never saw its fortifications breached, withstanding several sieges including one in 1689 which lasted 105 days, hence the city’s nickname, The Maiden City.”

After breakfast we parked in town and went to look at the wall and museum. We soon struck two local representatives of Irish hospitality. As we looked at our street map an elderly gentleman stopped and cheerily pointed us in the right direction. Not much further on as we discussed various landmarks another gentleman introduced himself and offered to escort us to the very spot! This was Pat and we had a nice chat as we walked along and met one of his friends coming the other way and had a chat with him as well.

Our friend Pat taking us on a guided tour!

One of the many stained glass windows in the Memorial Hall

The Tower museum which forms part of the wall

We had a look at the Memorial Hall and then the museum, which is partly within the old fortifications. This had a very interesting display of the story of Ireland from prehistoric times and, in the old tower, the remnants of a ship of the Spanish Armada which had been wrecked on the north coast not far from our ferry crossing of yesterday. There were many interesting arms and personal items recovered from the wreck site. It had been a Spanish merchant ship, which was conscripted into carrying armaments for the Armada and was among the half of the original 130 ships which failed to make it back to Spain. Most of those were wrecked on the west coasts of Scotland and Ireland.

The wall - much wider than York — The wall – much wider than York

We then walked the wall of the old town. Looking out over the terrace houses of old Londonderry you cannot forget that this city was the scene of tragic events in the Troubles of the 20th Century and a feeling of those times still lingers. However we also felt while travelling around that while people haven’t forgotten, they are moving on.
We then motored down to the Harvey Point Hotel near Donegal where Lyndal had managed to pre-book a suite at half price. The photos tell the story, and indeed it was quite comfy to say the least.

Harvey's Point across the lake — Harvey’s Point across the lake

Harvey's Point with rooms on the right and restaurant on the left — Harvey’s Point with rooms on the right and restaurant on the left

Next day we went to see the town and the ancient Donegal Castle

An apocryphal story claims that the chute taking the waste down to the river was angled so that an enemy archer could not take one by surprise

The stairs are uneven in order to trip up an enemy swordsman. The spiral is to the right because the O'Donnell's were right handed and this gave them more room on the turn to strike down their enemies. — The stairs are uneven in order to trip up an enemy swordsman. The spiral is to the right because the O’Donnell’s were right handed and this gave them more room on the turn to strike down their enemies.

and then to the town of Killybeg, the largest fishing port in Ireland, in pursuit of a seafood lunch.
“Big Breakfast” was still weighing on us so we drove on along the coast in pursuit of a view. Well, like an ever receding mirage the grand view eluded us as were led on by promises listed on maps and roadside signs. We finished up on the wild and barren extremity of south west Donegal County, totally tree-less and populated only by peat cutters and (maybe) smugglers/wreckers!

One of the beaches of Killbeg with some sun worshippers

At the end of the road a godforsaken village on windswept hills with yards full of junk - Ed reckons they are wreckers — At the end of the road a godforsaken village on windswept hills with yards full of junk – Ed reckons they are wreckers

We finally got back to Killybegs to find that, like many fishing ports, fresh seafood meals were not to be had (should have known). So we settled for fish & chips, which we ate on a bench overlooking the harbour and the sturdy fishing boats that battle the Atlantic seas.

Killybegs is also the home of the Donegal Carpet Factory, which has been hand making carpets for over 100 years. We did a tour of their remaining factory. There were four manufacturing houses at one time in County Donegal but three of the four facilities closed during The Great Depression and in 1987 the last facility closed. Local Donegal people petitioned the government to help re-open them and in 1999 they were making carpets again for places such as Áras an Uachtaráin, Dublin Castle and the University of Notre Dame. The carpets are thick and sumptuous and very beautiful but commissions are few and far between as the cost is prohibitive.

Example of a Donegal carpet in Dublin Castle

We headed back to the luxury of Harvey Point rather wishing we had spent more time there instead of chasing views. A walk around the still lake convinced us!

Resident swan in full plumage. The same pair have been there for many years producing young every year

Next day on to Ennis in County Clare and “The Quest” for Lyndal’s rellys.