Botanical Gardens and Black Bear Kayaking

Next morning we decided to go for a morning walk in the Tofino Botanical Gardens after having breakfast in Darwin’s Café. Darwin’s Cafe has been described as a cross between a library, a living room, and a cafe! There are books to read, sofas to sit on and excellent food

Inside the cafe are books to read and sofas to sit on

We chose an outdoor table on the verandah next to a comfy sofa with a sign saying ‘Reserved for those over 65 and retired’. There was a gentleman there who smiled at us as we sat down. I asked him if he fitted the criteria and he replied “You never retire when you have a garden”. This was George, the owner of the garden and a keen gardener and resident of Tofino for over 30 years.

George’s dog surveying the garden
Looking over the frog pond to Darwin’s Cafe

Twenty years ago he decided to develop a garden on his 5 hectares of waterfront land – a garden to share with others. After spending a year climbing trees to peer through the canopy and planning the garden and walks, they started with the closest gardens, the café and the gift shop and gradually worked their way out. Having sculptures in the garden were always an objective and George started approaching sculptors to ask if they would loan some sculptures to be displayed in the garden.
Now the garden is an interesting mixture of semi formal gardens, waterfront walks and old forest areas with large trees. Everywhere there are whimsical sculptures and quirky signs . Sculptors now approach him to display their work and everyone benefits – not least the visitors to this obviously loved garden.
These skulls were reconstructed from bone fragments discovered at an undisclosed location.
A place for contemplation by the water
Walkway to the old growth forest
Old growth forest

We had a very sustaining breakfast of power packed granola, baguettes with homemade butter and homemade jam and hot chocolate/coffee and then wandered around the gardens until it was time to check in for our kayaking adventure.

We met Adam, our guide, and T. J. our boat driver and also the owner of the company. Adam kitted us out and warned us to use the washroom as for the next 4 hours the only toilet facilities would be squatting on the beach whilst everyone looked the other way or going behind a bush and risk running into a bear. Needless to say he had instant obedience and we all dutifully traipsed off to the washroom.

Down a steep walkway and onto T.J’s boat we headed for bear territory. After about 30 minutes we came into a bay with a bear and it was time to launch the kayaks. Adam demonstrated and I noticed I was not the only one looking nervous. We were assured that no one ever fell in and then had a briefing on what to do if we did.

Not too sure about this

Not reassured, the first ones to board were a young lieutenant in the British Army and his 20 something girlfriend. After a somewhat shaky descent they were in and paddled off the side. Then it was our turn – Ed first and me second with both Adam and TJ holding the kayak firmly. Piece of cake, well almost! We set off for the beach and the bear promptly disappeared into the bush.

It was a beautiful sunny day and quite warm on the water. We paddled around the coves for about 2 hours. No bears but plenty of birds including some beautiful herons, a seal rolling around in the water cleaning itself and dolphins. It was a lovely way to spend a day, so we weren’t too stressed out about not seeing any bears. Our concerns about keeping up with all the young ones were baseless and we soon hit our rhythm and put on a very credible performance.
Back on board the boat (somewhat more difficult than getting in having been sitting in the same position for over 2 hours) we went in search of bears further afield and soon found one in a cove and then a very large female a little further along. We got in quite close and took lots of photos. No sign of cubs or male bears – not a good combination as Adam related how they were horrified to witness a big male kill a cub the previous week.

Slightly weary and rather damp we returned to the hotel for a shower and change into dry clothes before having an early dinner at the Ice House Oyster Bar.
This time we chose to sit inside which was very pleasant, if a little warm. We had perused the menu the night before so were pretty quick to make our choices.
There were six different types of oyster on offer so we each had one of each type with a side of Hokkaido Scallops.

The oysters all lined up. Our favourites were the Effingham and the Royal Myagi
For main course I had the Mushroom Risotto – probably one of the best I have ever eaten – unfortunately there was a mix up and they added another side of Hokkaido Scallops on top, which I was forced to eat as well.
A mix of mushrooms confit and ragout with toast rice powder, grana padano cheese, fava bean and zucchini and served with wild sea asparagus or samphire
Edgar had the early dinner special, which was Phillips Tiger Shark citra pale ale beer batter with local snapper, savoy cabbage and apple slaw, smoke potatoes and a rémoulade sauce. He also tried a beautifully presented selection of local preserved vegetables and pickled eggs as a side.
To drink I had Black Widow Pinot Gris from Naramata, BC and Edgar tried a couple of the local beers.
We adjourned to our hotel for a quick walk on the beach and then a quick trip up the road to Chocolate Tofino for dessert. Their honey lavender icecream was something else!