We entered the magnificent Lake District after one of the longer drives of our trip. One of the features our Swedish Commodore has which is of great benefit on the motorways is a radar assisted cruise control which automatically keeps the correct distance from the car in front. The traffic density on the motorways here is such that a standard cruise control would be of limited use.
Our first stop was Windermere on Lake Windermere and we were greeted as we stepped out of the car by a howling North Westerly (South Westerly Down Under) with, alternately, sleet, freezing rain, sunshine and hail. We quickly shelved the idea of an idyllic boat cruise on the lake (!) and settled for a brief promenade along with the zillion other tourists – yes it was indeed the start of the Easter holidays – a point which we had overlooked until now.
Back to the car and on to Lake Bassenthwaite. The crowds diminished as we went North – those old Bassenthwaites obviously knew a thing or two – and we arrived at the very pleasant old world tourist lodge Ravenstone Manor, just a couple of miles south of Bassenthwaite village. After settling in we hopped back in the car and drove up to the village for a beer at “The Sun”. Naturally we drank “Bassenthwaite Beauty” – quite a respectable beer.
We dined at the Hotel and next day, not quite so windy but still changeable, we went looking for Beatrix Potter’s “Hill Top Farm” via the back roads (not strictly intentional) and experienced much of the narrow one car wide lanes bounded by stone walls, hoping no one was coming the other way.
There is a wild beauty here with the great rounded mountains and timeless stone walled farms and the lakes which make Cumbria a place you must see no matter what.
We finally found “Hill Top” which is faithfully preserved by the National Trust much as Beatrix Potter left it. Many of the scenes she drew for her books were sketched here and you can see Mr. McGregors garden, the watering can which Peter Rabbit hid in, the chimney Tom Kitten climbed up and many other scenes. She was also a highly respected breeder and judge of sheep and the descendants of her flock are still on the farm.
That night we dined at “the Sun” on traditional pub fare. In the morning we visited ancient St Bega’s on the Lake shore and St John’s in the Village and signed the church visitors register in both places. At St John’s we noted in recent years visits by other Bassingthwaightes from Vancouver, Seattle and Dubbo.
Then it was on to Edinburgh.
